Grading problems

Believe it or not, most basement water seepage issues are improperly addressed. The most common “correction” we find is the use of masonry sealer on the interior of the foundation walls. These products were designed as damp-proofing sealers, not a water proofing material.
Do they have a purpose? YES.
Are they going to keep out the ground water? NO.
The best way to eliminate water seepage is by providing good drainage control around the outside of the house. This is usually accomplished by:

a) Building the soil up around the foundation, and having it slope away from the building.

1. Clay-based soil is the best choice, as water simply runs through sandy soil.
2. Make sure you don’t allow soil contact with wood, as this will promote rot and insect presence.

b) Making sure that the gutter downspouts are directed at least 6 feet away from the building.

c) Covering basement window wells and making sure they do not become mini-swimming pools.

Some areas have naturally high water tables. In these instances, there may be seepage issues even when the above suggestions are followed. In those cases, we have to make sure we can control seepage under worst- case conditions, such as springtime when there is a heavy thaw. This is usually accomplished by use of a sump pump. While fairly reliable, they do operate by electricity, which leaves you at risk of flooding in the event of a long-term power outage. We routinely recommend that backup provisions be installed.
The two most common are:

a) Battery backup pump system, or,
b) A water pressure driven pump system.

Either one of these devices will help control seepage in emergency situations, and are well worth the investment.

Decks

• Decks, as a whole, tend to be the most common item on a house that a “non-carpenter” will attempt. Many are built just fine, although many more have issues ranging from structural to safety. So, our advice, always hire a professional to do work outside of your expertise. That having been said:
• Probably the most common issue we find relating to decks is the lack of flashing between the wall of the house and the deck attachment. This area is a prime spot for water seepage, which will rot out the flooring and framing underneath over time. Insects also are very attracted to damp wood, hence what the rot doesn’t destroy, the carpenter ants will.
• Next in line, the attachment to the house. One only needs to read the newspaper to realize that under certain circumstances, a poorly supported deck will collapse, causing injury or even death. Nails are not sufficient to carry the load of this juncture. Lag bolts or through-bolts are required.
• These bolts are also recommended for attaching beams to support posts.
• Deck steps/stairs and also quite often marginally built and lack handrails.
• Speaking of rails, guardrails around decks should have vertical spindles at no more than 4 inches apart. This will prevent small children from falling between them.
  
  Patios
  
  Often, we find patios that have settled over the years, and are sloping towards the building. This can cause a number of issues, most notably:
• Water seepage into the basement or crawl space.
• Water pressure against the foundation wall, which can lead to inward bowing, and in extreme cases, result in compromising the structural integrity of the foundation.
  
  As a general rule, patio surfaces should be installed with a slight pitch away from the building in order to assist in preventing these conditions.
  
  Stairs/Steps
  According to the Consumer Protection Safety Commission, falls on stairs are the Number 1 cause of death in the household throughout the United States, with numbers rising due to the aging of the baby boomer generation.