There are a number of different types of heating systems found in houses. The most common ones found in our area are forced air ducted systems, hot water boilers, and electric baseboard heat strips.
Some of the less common systems are steam boilers, heat pumps, in-floor (or ceiling) radiant heat and geo-thermal systems.
NOTE: As with any heating equipment, make sure that storage is kept away from these units. Cardboard boxes lying near the equipment is a huge fire hazard, a situation we home inspectors see all too often.

FORCED AIR DUCTED SYSTEMS
The forced air ducted system is the type of system we see most often. This is due to the lower initial cost for installation, especially in a new house.
Over the years the efficiency of these systems has been improved to the point where many models can be vented out the sidewall of the house. These styles are referred to as “direct-vent” systems. Direct vent systems were also designed to draw combustion air from outside the house, reducing to potential for depressurization issues, as well as improving the indoor air quality. Some of these systems have sealed combustion chambers, and are referred to “high-efficiency” furnaces.

• Forced air Upside –
  o relative low cost and ease of installation. Low maintenance.
• Forced air Downside –
  o Unless installed properly, to include the ductwork design, these may provide uneven heat. They can also raise considerable dust due to the constant movement of air.
  o Often installed utilizing the old ductwork, which in many cases, is not designed for the newer system. (That is why it’s so important to hire a qualified heating contractor, as opposed to “The CHEAP GUYS Heating Company.”
  o Generally expected to last around 15-20 years
• Recommendation 1– Sizing
  o When these units are replaced, we generally recommend that heat loss calculations within the house be taken, along with having the unit sized correctly for its task. Either oversized and undersized systems should be avoided.
• Recommendation 2 – The Heating Contractor
  o Speaking of sizing, the quality of the heating contractor makes all the difference in the world. Almost anyone can drop in a new unit, it takes a true heating contractor to look at the house as a system and insure that what is being installed is the right systems for your particular house. Beware of the contractor who simply wants to replace the existing with the same size unit without looking at any of the other determining factors relating to the house. NOTE: The biggest ad in the Yellow Pages isn’t always a sign of the quality of workmanship. Do your homework.
• Recommendation 3 – Ductwork
  o We also recommend that the ductwork be changed, as old oversized ductwork will not effectively heat the house. Also, if the house was constructed in the 1940’s or earlier, it may have been designed for a gravity system, in which the heat supply ducts directed the warm air at the inside walls, as opposed to the outside walls as the forced air systems are designed for. While we often see newer systems connected to older ductwork, a complete change-out of ducting is the best route to take.
• Recommendation 3 – Furnace Filters
  o Furnace filters play an important part in allowing this type of system to operate properly. A dirty filter will prevent adequate airflow across the heat exchanger, which can overheat the metal, resulting in premature metal fatigue. A missing filter directs dusty air through the components, and may result in dirty burners, which can create carbon monoxide.
• Our Pick –
  o Given the choice regarding forced air systems, in our opinion, spending a little more money up front on a sealed combustion high-efficiency direct vented unit would be a worthwhile investment, for greater energy efficiency, improved indoor air quality, not to mention lower heating costs. This type of system will also eliminate the need for the old masonry flue, which in many instances, is in need of a fair amount of repair work and/or relining.

HOT WATER & STEAM BOILERS
Of the two, the hot water boilers are, by far, more commonly found in modern houses. Modern systems include a boiler, which heats the water within the system, and one or more circulation pumps (circ pumps) that feed the heated water through the house to the individual radiators. Steam boilers use the expansive force of water turning to steam to push the heat through the piping system to the radiators. We only see a handful of these every year, most being old systems. We could devote pages upon pages relating to these systems, but we want to keep it somewhat simple, not turn you into boiler technicians.

How to tell the difference between steam and hot water systems.

• Steam systems have a glass tube on the side referred to as a sight glass. (Sometimes this tube is located on a tank in the attic.) NOTE: If the water in the sight glass is crystal clear, it probably suggests that the system is losing water somewhere. )
• Modern hot water systems have circulation pumps. These are not found on steam systems.
  
• Boiler Upside –
  o Boiler systems are easily “zoned” to allow specific areas of a house to be heated, while leaving unoccupied areas cooler. This provides greater control on where your heat is going, while also saving on the heating costs.
  o When running properly, they are quieter than forced air systems, as they lack the somewhat noisy blower fan.
  o They do not raise dust, as forced air systems do.
  o The radiators provide residual heat, even after the burners have turned off.
  o Usually last longer than typical forced air systems, often 10-15 years longer
• Downside –
  o They are more expensive to install than forced air systems, due to the amount of piping, and related components such as valves, pumps, and radiator components.
  o If not properly installed and maintained, they may allow air into the lines, which can be quite noisy. (Usually, this is a simple “bleed” correction, although on occasion, it may take some investigative work by the boiler tech.)
  o While we always recommend annual cleaning and service on all heating equipment, it is critical that this be performed on hot water and steam systems.
  o Replacement of older boilers may require piping and radiator replacement as well, which will greatly affect the cost.
• Recommendation 1 –
  o Some systems benefit from having anti-corrosive additives to help prevent rusting of metal components. Ask your boiler tech.
• Recommendation 2 –
  o Insure that the operating pressure in these systems is:
  ? Hot Water- somewhere between 12-20 psi.
  ? Steam – Somewhere around ¼- ½ psi.
  ? If the pressure is more than that, something is going on that should be looked at further by your boiler tech.
• Recommendation 3 –
  o Become a home inspector. Get in the habit of observing your boiler closely on a regular basis, as small water drip over time, can create a lot of damage.
• Recommendation 4 –
  o Have your boiler tech run you through the normal homeowner maintenance procedures. While math is not my best subject, I guarantee this equation works.
  Annual service+ Better care = Better efficiency & Longer boiler life.
• Recommendation 5 –
  o Learn to “listen” to you system. If you start hearing noises that you didn’t hear in the past, this probably indicates that something is going on. Don’t wait for failure, get you boiler tech in to take a look.

ELECTRIC BASEBOARD HEAT
While not known for efficiency, we still find a fair amount of houses that are relying on this type of heat. Many are found in housing tracts that were constructed back in the 1970’s. Why, during the decade of the first energy crunch, would builders install heating systems known for their high operating costs into new houses, you might ask? Simple, many of these tracts are located in areas that were lacking natural gas, and it was easier than dealing with propane or fuel oil. Of the three most common types of heat, in our opinion, electric baseboard is the least desirable.

• Electric Baseboard heat Upside –
  o Easy to install. Put ‘em where you need ‘em.
  o Relatively low cost
  o Quiet
• Electric Baseboard heat Downside –
  o Expensive to operate in most municipalities.
  o Very dry heat.
  o Due to the ease of installation, sometimes installed by…less than qualified individuals.
• NOTE: We often see houses that were constructed initially with electric baseboard heat, and have been retrofitted with a forced air system. In split-level houses, many times the heating ductwork was provided to the first floor only, while the baseboard heaters have remained on the upper floor. This tends to be functional if installed correctly, as heated air rises, although at times, the baseboard units on the upper floor may still be necessary.
• Recommendation 1 –
  o With electric baseboard heat, it is very important that there is at least 6 inches of clearance between anything that is flammable and the unit itself. Many, many times, we find furniture, drapes, or storage pushed up against and in contact with these units, creating a risk of fire.
  o Electrical outlets are not permitted above this type of heating system, due to the fire potential present with electric cords hanging nearby. If you have receptacles above, have them disabled and/or relocated.
• Recommendation 2 –
  o If natural gas has been brought into the house over the years, consider updating you heating to a forced air system, as you will save on energy costs in the long run.
  
  HEAT PUMPS
  Heat pumps are fairly rare in this neck of the woods, as they are not designed to operate to their full potential in our climate. They run on electricity and quite simply put, extract the heat from the outside air and feed it through a forced air system of ductwork. While we do run into these systems on occasion, and the people who have them generally seem quite pleased with then, this type of heating system would not be our recommendation in the Central New York area.
  What’s it look like?
  The outside component tends to look like an air conditioning condenser unit only these are generally set on stands that raise them up off the ground 1-2 feet.
  Inside, they look similar to a forced air system.
• Heat Pump Upside –
  o Efficient…in Virginia.
• Heat Pump Downside –
  o Not very effective in central New York.
• Recommendation 1 –
  o Maintain these systems and have them serviced annually.
• Recommendation 2 –
  o As with any forced air system, insure that the air filter is changed monthly.

RADIANT HEAT
This type of system is gaining popularity due to improvements in design. While they remain one of the most costly types of systems to install, they provide a wonderful source of heat. Found most often in floors, sometimes in ceiling panels. Some use a boiler, or even a water heater with a pump, to send heated water through tubing. Some are electrically operated.

• Radiant Heat Upside –
  o In-floor systems eliminate the need for unsightly baseboard radiators and floor or wall registers needed in other types of systems.
  o When installed in basement floors, provides warmth to an area that was, quite frankly, the most difficult location in a house to heat.
  o Quiet - no noisy blower fan. Clean – No circulating air.
  o Because the heat is rising from the entire floor up, it provides a more even distribution of heated air.
• Radiant Heat Downside –
  o Costly to install
  o Even more costly to retrofit into an existing house.
  • Recommendation 1 –
  o If you’re planning on building a new house, you would be wise to research this type of system. As they become more popular, and components and installation practices improve, the cost for installation is coming down. And it is much more affordable to install during the construction process. If I were to build tomorrow, this would be the type of system I would have installed.
• Recommendation 2 –
  o While they are costly to retrofit into an existing house, it may be a wise choice if you are planning a basement refinish. Components are available to install this type of heat on a slightly raised floor, which will make a big difference in your comfort level in this difficult to heat area.
  
  
• Tips for Lowering Your Furnace/Boiler's Energy Usage
  
  • Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable.
  • Keep the temperature fairly constant, as frequent changes will utilize more energy by causing unnecessary cycling on and off. Setting back the temperature at night, however, is recommended.
  • Clean or replace furnace filters once a month or as needed.
  • Oil-fired boilers should be professionally cleaned and tuned once a year. Gas-fired equipment needs to be checked every other year.
  • Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they are not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
  • Keep draperies and shades on south-facing windows open during the heating season to allow sunlight to enter your home; close them at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows.
  • Close the door to an unoccupied room or area that is isolated from the rest of the house and turn down the thermostat or turn off the heat for that room or area.
  • Use kitchen, bath, and other ventilating fans wisely. Turn these fans off as soon as they are no longer needed. In about 1 hour, these fans can pull out a house-full of warmed or cooled air. They can also pull dangerous furnace combustion gasses into the house in some situations.
  • Check your ducts for air leaks. First look for sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for obvious holes.
  • Do not use duct tape to repair leaky ducts. Standard duct tape has been shown unreliable. Various mastics or non-cloth-backed tapes are preferable.
  
  
• FAQ
  
  Will Installing Air Filters in My Home Help My Asthma?
  Are There National Health Standards for Air Filter Performance?
  How Can I Find a Quality Air Filter?
  Are There Different Kinds of Air Filters?
  Can Filters Actually “Change the Air” in a Room?
  Is There a Type of Filter That Will Be Best for My Asthma?
  Are HEPA Filters Expensive and Difficult to Handle?
  What Else Should I Consider Before Buying an Air Filtration System?

Will Installing Air Filters in My Home Help My Asthma?
Although the American Lung Association and the EPA recommend air filtration, they say that controlling the sources of allergy-causing pollution and ventilation are more important. Air filters are worth considering, but not as a solution to your allergy problems by themselves. In fact, research studies disagree on whether or not filters give much added relief from asthma in a clean and well-ventilated home.
While many allergenic particles are suspended in household air, there are far more resting on surfaces like rugs, furniture and countertops. Keeping these areas clean is the most important step in controlling the cause of your asthma.

Are There National Health Standards for Air Filter Performance?
No. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has twice asked groups of experts to recommend national standards, but neither effort succeeded. Both groups concluded that there isn’t enough research data on the relationship between air filtration and actual health improvement to recommend national standards.
When you shop for air filters, you will find several rating systems that claim to compare filters. But these are not health-related rating systems. They are standards used by manufacturers or manufacturers’ organizations, and provide little or no guidance for the health-conscious shopper.

How Can I Find a Quality Air Filter?
Although the FDA has no health-related standards, it does consider some portable air filtration systems to be Class II medical devices. In the United States, nothing can claim this status without FDA approval. To get approval, a manufacturer must show two things: (1) that the device is safe, usually indicated by the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) seal, and (2) that it has a medical benefit. Look for both the UL seal and a statement of the FDA’s Class II approval. If no FDA statement is available with the device, check the FDA’s medical device listing before buying. Ask your doctor for guidance.

Are There Different Kinds of Air Filters?
Yes. There are five basic types.
Mechanical filters. These force air through a special mesh that traps particles including allergens like pollen, pet dander and dust mites. They also capture irritant particles like tobacco smoke.
Electronic filters, of which the most efficient are electrostatic filters. These use electrical charges to attract and deposit allergens and irritants. If the device contains collecting plates, the particles are captured within the system. Otherwise they stick to room surfaces and have to be cleaned away.
Hybrid filters. These contain the elements of both mechanical and electrostatic filters.
Gas phase filters. These remove odors and non-particulate pollution like cooking gas, gasses given off by paint or building materials, and perfume. They cannot remove allergenic particles.
Ozone generators. Although ozone cleans air, the EPA and the American Lung Association do not recommend these because ozone is harmful to lungs. When ozone concentration rises outdoors, people with asthma are warned to stay inside. Generating ozone in the house makes no sense.

Can Filters Actually “Change the Air” in a Room?
Yes. When shopping for an air filter system, look for one that can recirculate 8 or 10 room volumes per hour. This doesn’t guarantee completely clean air, but it will be much cleaner than with systems that recirculate less.
You should also ask about efficiency. You need a system that removes more than 90 percent of all particles larger than 0.3 microns in diameter. Most indoor allergens are larger than this, so this efficiency standard will handle them easily.

Is There a Type of Filter That Will Be Best for My Asthma?
Yes. The most effective is a kind of mechanical filter called the high-efficiency particulate air (or HEPA) filter. (Note: This is a type of filter, not a product name.) HEPA was invented during World War II to prevent the escape of radioactive particles from laboratories. To qualify as a “true HEPA” filter, a device must be able to capture at least 90 percent of all particles 0.3 microns or more in diameter that enter it.
Be aware, however, that there are filters on the market that claim to be HEPAs, but may be only half as efficient. Insist on a system that meets “true HEPA” filtration standards. This way you will be certain to get a system that removes at least 90 percent of the indoor allergen particles.
The Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America recommends that if you decide to clean indoor air, you choose a “true HEPA” filtration system.

Are HEPA Filters Expensive and Difficult to Handle?
No. Up to a point, filters improve with age, since trapped particles fill spaces that later particles might get through. Eventually, though, they become clogged and costly to operate. It is easy to replace the mesh once a year for greater efficiency.
Be sure to ask questions about cost, difficulty and useful life of filters in your conversation with salespeople so that you won’t be surprised later with unexpected costs or difficulties.

What Else Should I Consider Before Buying an Air Filtration System?
If your home is heated or air conditioned through ducts, it may be possible to build filters into your air handling system. This has the advantage of the great force with which air will pass through the filter. And it eliminates a space-consuming appliance and an additional sound in your home. On the other hand, the filters may be more expensive and more difficult to handle; and they may need to be changed more often. Consult your doctor and your heating service on this alternative to a portable system.